Theft
Petty theft is the most common kind of crime that tourists face, and more often than not it comes as the result of carelessness. The first rule is, if you really don't want to lose something, don't bring it along in the first place, for example, jewellery, expensive watches, flashy sunglasses and so on. If you plan on returning to Quito in between trips to various parts of the country, you can leave unneeded valuables and luggage at the SAE , and travel light using the kind of bag you'll see most Ecuadorians carrying around (typically a small black one), found in most markets. Leaving your rucksack and the bulk of your belongings behind will make you feel far less conspicuous, while acting assuredly and going about your business purposefully will greatly diminish your chances of being picked as a target.

There are many other basic precautions you can take besides. Make notes of ticket numbers, emergency credit-card phone numbers, travellers' cheques numbers (always keeping the receipt separately), insurance numbers and copy the important pages of your passport and other travel documents. Consider registering with your embassy - this will greatly speed up the process of replacement should your passport be lost or stolen. Don't carry all your valuables in one place, and always keep them out of sight, including in hotel rooms when you go out for the day. Many hotels have a safe ( caja fuerte ) at reception for storage of valuables in a signed and sealed envelope; make sure you get an itemized receipt for everything that is stored. Alternatively, lock valuables in your bag, secure it to something (many people take a light chain and some small padlocks) and hide it away (for example, under the bed). In some places, you may be able to use your own lock on the door. Never leave cameras lying about, or money and travellers' cheques in a drawer - deny people the chance of even being tempted to take stuff. In dormitories or rooms that you share with people you don't know, be just as cautious: other travellers can be thieves too.

When you go out , carry as little of value as you possibly can; keep small notes and change that you'll regularly be using apart from the bulk of your cash - you don't want to reveal its location to anyone that might be watching. Wallets, especially those poking out of a back pocket, are easy prey for pickpockets, as are bumbags or fannypacks. Wearing a money belt is the best way to carry cash, cards and important documents if you have to take them onto the street with you. Make sure the pouch and belt are entirely hidden from view, keeping the pouch tucked well beneath your trousers, even in your underpants. Try not to get money out of it in public - this is your secret stash.

Pickpockets and thieves favour crowded places , typically bus stations, markets, city centres, public transport, crowded beaches, fiestas and anywhere that tourists congregate. Busy bus stations are particularly bad places, as you tend to be loaded up with all your gear and are more concerned about getting a good seat or finding a hotel. What's more, bus stations are often in insalubrious parts of town, so take a taxi between your hotel and the station, especially early in the morning and after dark. When boarding a bus, avoid leaving one bag on the ground while you stick another on the roof: keep a hand or a firm foot on everything. If you can, take your bags into the bus with you, and sit where you can see them. Most of your valuables can be transferred to a small pack that you can keep with you during the journey. Buying a sack or tailor-made covers for your rucksack helps to deter light fingers and razor bladers, and some people go to the lengths of lining them with chicken wire. Travelling at night , whether in your own vehicle or on public transport, is a bad idea, especially in Guayas province, where hold-ups have been an ongoing problem.

Sometimes thieves work in teams and look to set up distractions while their colleagues take off with your belongings. Such con tricks include spraying you with ketchup and trying to wipe it off, telling you you've dropped some money, pointing at your shoes as if you've stepped in something - anything to stop you thinking about your possessions. Walk briskly away with firm hold of your gear, and ignore them entirely. Fraudsters also like to impersonate policemen; if you're stopped by a policeman who asks to see anything more than your ID, be very suspicious, scrutinize their ID and make a note of all the details. Offering to walk with them to the nearest police station can stop them in their tracks. Don't get into unmarked cars or taxis with anyone, don't take anyone to your hotel room and never show anyone your money.

Armed robbery is unusual, but does happen. Recently some hotels in the La Mariscal area in Quito have been targeted; other danger spots are parts of the old town, El Panecillo, the Pichincha volcanoes and Parque Carolina. You shouldn't go into any city park outside of full daylight hours. In Guayaquil, you should be extra vigilant in the downtown areas, the dock and the airport. Because of a general breakdown in law and order in the city, temporary states of emergency have been imposed in recent times here and in Guayas province as a whole, with a military presence and curfews, so ask your embassy for the latest information. You should never resist an armed robber - these are desperate people.

Even less likely to happen - but something you should be aware of - is drugging . This problem is better known in Colombia, but a few cases have been reported in Ecuador. Extract from the datura plant is slipped into food and drinks, incapacitating the victim, who generally wakes up a day or two later minus money, luggage and any recollection of what has happened. Never accept food, drink or cigarettes from strangers, especially on public transport, no matter how benign they appear. In bars, you can lessen risks by watching your bottle being uncapped and by keeping an eye on your drink. South American Explorers has all the latest on crime hotspots and scams, and keeps a file of travel warnings and advice, available in a concise form online.

The police
All going well, the only contact you're likely to have with the police ( policía ) are at road checkpoints at various places around the country, mentioned in the guide text. Often you will be waved through, but sometimes you'll be asked to register. You should carry your passport , or a photocopy of the important pages, at all times. In the Oriente and some border areas, only the original will do. In some cases you may also have your bags searched. Watch as they search, and even better get a witness to watch with you: it's very rare, but corrupt officials have planted drugs in bags with the end of extracting a large "fine" from the terrified tourist. The possession of drugs , regardless of whether it's for personal use or not, is a very serious offence in Ecuador, one that can end in fifteen years in jail. People who've been charged may have to contend with the country's dilapidated and overcrowded prisons for more than a year before they're even brought to trial. Don't take any chances with drugs or drug dealers - set-ups have happened - as it's simply not worth the consequences. If offered drugs in the street, walk quickly away.

You will need to go to the police as soon as possible if you are robbed , in order to make a report ( denuncia ). The report should include an itemized list of everything that was taken and is a vital document if you want to claim on your insurance. Beyond this, there's not a lot they can do, but they may go back to the scene of the crime with you for a look around - a gesture of sympathy more than anything else.

Other risks
There are certain areas in Ecuador that, should you plan to visit, you'll need to check the latest information on safety with your embassy. Parts of Sucumbíos province (capital Lago Agrio) close to the Colombian border have been made unsafe by suspected Colombian guerilla activity . A group of foreign oil workers was kidnapped here in September 1999 and held for three months. The remoter parts of Carchi province (capital Tulcán) have also seen guerilla problems in the border areas. The Cordillera del Cóndor, southeast of Zamora, long involved in a border dispute with Peru, still contains unmarked minefields and should be avoided altogether.

In late 1999, there was much speculation that both Guagua Pichincha and Tungurahua volcanoes were soon to erupt. Both of them reached orange alert (the scale runs from white to yellow to orange then red), and whole towns were evacuated. These are not the only active volcanoes in the country; you can keep abreast of the level of volcanic activity either through local press or with your embassy.

The mood of the public can also periodically erupt in Ecuador, especially in times of economic uncertainty. Demonstrations ( manifestaciones ) and strikes ( paros or huelgas ) form a common and normal part of political expression in the country. Violence is rare, and the climax is often little more than the odd burning tyre in the middle of the road, though it can be a frightening experience. Occasionally trouble can break out, when the police move in with tear gas and water cannon - reason enough to steer clear. When there's widespread discontent, roadblocks, particularly on the Panamericana, are common, so make allowances for delays in your itinerary.