The widest choice of hikes is found in the sierra, where numerous mule paths lead into the mountains and up to the páramo, providing access to stunning views and exhilarating, wide-open spaces. The country's best-known long-distance hike is in the southern sierra: the Inca Trail to Ingapirca , a three-day hike ending up at Ecuador's most important Inca ruins. Also down in the south, Parque Nacional El Cajas provides some of the best hiking in the country, in a landscape strongly reminiscent of the Scottish highlands, while Parque Nacional Podocarpus offers a fabulous two-day hike across the páramo to the Lagunas del Compadre .

Elsewhere in the sierra, rewarding possibilities include day-hikes in the area around Laguna Quilotoa and the nearby village of Sigchos , and a wonderful two-day hike to El Placer hot springs in Parque Nacional Sangay . There are few options for hiking in the Oriente, owing to dense forest cover - one notable exception is the two- to four-day Reventador trail . These suggestions are far from exhaustive, but provide a starting point for ideas, if you want to plan your trip around a few hikes.

Climbing
Ecuador's "avenue of the volcanoes", formed by the twin range of the Andes running the length of the country, offer numerous climbing opportunities, from relatively easy day-trips for strong hill-walkers to challenging technical peaks for experienced climbers. The most popular snow peaks , requiring full mountaineering equipment, include Cayambe (5790m), Cotopaxi (5897m) and Iliniza Sur (5263m). Lower, less demanding climbs, suitable for acclimatizing or simply enjoying them in their own right, include Guagua Pichincha (4794m); Imbabura (4609m); and Pasochoa (4200m).

Not all of the higher peaks require previous mountaineering experience : many beginners make it up Cotopaxi, for instance, which demands physical fitness, stamina and sheer determination rather than technical expertise. Others, such as Chimborazo, should only be attempted by climbers with experience behind them. It is, of course, essential that climbers with limited mountaineering experience are accompanied by an experienced and utterly dependable guide , whose first concern is safety. Ecuador's best-trained mountain guides are those certified by an organization called ASEGUIM (Asociación Ecuatoriana de Guías de Montaña), whose members have to pass exams and take courses spread over a three-year period before receiving the Diploma de Guía. It's always worth paying the extra for an ASEGUIM guide (usually in the region of $250 in total per person, per climb) - remember that even relatively straightforward, non-technical climbs carry an inherent risk, and your life may depend on your guide. More experienced climbers should also seriously consider ascending with a guide, whose intimate knowledge of the route options, weather patterns, avalanche risks, glaciers and crevasses can make all the difference to the safety and success of an attempt at summiting.

All your equipment will be provided by your guiding company, if you're going with one, or can be rented from these companies or from specialist mountaineering outlets in Quito . Check the equipment over very carefully before deciding which company to sign up with. Guides also provide all food on the climb, but you should take your own chocolate and nibbles, to keep your energy levels up, as well as your own water bottle. Accommodation is usually in mountain refuges, which serve as the starting point of the climbs. Note that you will usually only get three or four hours' sleep before a big climb, as it's common to set off around midnight or 1am, so as to ascend and descend before the sun starts to melt the snow over crevasses.

One point that cannot be stressed forcefully enough is the importance of acclimatizing before attempting the higher peaks. This should involve spending a few days at the altitude of Quito (2800m), taking in a combination of rest and moderate exercise, followed by at least four or five days around 3500-3800m, ideally including some trekking at this altitude and hill-walking up to around 4200m and then a little higher. If you ignore this warning and try to shoot up Cotopaxi after a couple of days' hill-climbing around Quito, you may well find yourself vomiting every half-hour or so as you try to ascend, or simply too dizzy and nauseous to carry on climbing. A couple of good bases for acclimatizing include the walker's refuge at La Urbina (3620m ) near Riobamba, and the tiny village of Salinas (3500m ), near Guaranda. As well as taking time to acclimatize, another measure that helps combat the effects of altitude is drinking enormous quantities of water as you ascend.

Rafting and kayaking
White-water rafting combines the thrill of riding rapids with the chance to reach some spectacular landscapes that simply can't be visited otherwise. Each heavy-duty inflatable dinghy takes six to eight people plus a guide. Beginners can happily handle waters graded Class II and III, which usually involve substantial sections of quiet paddling between rougher and more exciting rapids. Class V runs are difficult and can be terrifying for the non-expert.

A small number of rafting and kayaking companies, mainly based in Quito, Tena and Baños, organize trips to dozens of rivers. Not far from Quito, on the way to Santo Domingo, the Ríos Blanco and Toachi offer a selection of popular runs suitable for beginners and old hands alike. A high density of rivers around Tena has singled the town out as a growing centre for the sport in Ecuador. Among the most popular is the Upper Napo , a typical beginner's run, while the nearby Río Misahuallí is suitable for more advanced paddlers, weaving through a stunning canyon in a remote section of rainforest, described as the best rafting trip in the country. Other options from Tena include the Río Hollín, Río Anzu , and the Río Quijos and tributaries give up a range of possibilities. In the southern Oriente, the Río Upano is one of the most talked about runs, involving a trip of several days which has the spectacular Namangosa Gorge on the itinerary.

Safety is the prime consideration for white-water rafting and kayaking. Rainfall can have a dramatic effect on a river, as an easy Class II in the dry months can turn into a swollen torrent too dangerous to run in the rainy season. Obviously, a good rafting company will be on top of the situation and will not attempt to run unsafe water. A few shoddy outfits with untrained guides and inappropriate equipment do exist; only go rafting with a reputable company, those that have fully-trained guides who know first-aid, can supply good-quality life jackets and helmets, and employ a safety kayak to accompany the raft on the run. Check whether they do all this and that your guide is accredited with AGAR (Asociación de Guías de Aguas Rápidas). For rafting around Tena, contact Ríos Ecuador (tel & fax 06/887438 or in Quito tel & fax 02/558264; info@riosecuador.com ), in the Hostal Camba Huasi and also opposite Hostal Travellers Lodging in Tena . For trips around Quito, contact Yacu Amu Rafting, Amazonas N24-03 and Presidente Wilson, Quito (tel & fax 02/236844, yacuamu@rafting.com.ec ).

Bird-watching
With roughly as many species as North America and Europe put together, crammed into a country that's smaller than Nevada, Ecuador arguably has the best birding in the world. There are hundreds of endemic species, and even some recent discoveries, such as the Antpitta found near Vilcabamba. The greatest diversity is to be found in transition zone habitats and montane forests, most famously on the western flank of the Andes, where there are hundreds of species of hummingbirds, tanagers and flycatchers, to name but a few. The village of Mindo , west of Quito, is internationally recognized as an Important Bird Area, and there are several fine private reserves in the area renowned for their birdlife.

On the eastern slopes of the Andes the Cosanga and Baeza areas are recommended, and in the south, Podocarpus national park and the areas around Loja , Zamora and Vilcabamba . The most convenient way to bird-watch in the Oriente is at one of the lodges, such as La Selva , Sacha or Kapawi , where ornithologist guides and bird lists, some recording well over 500 species, are provided. The best highland and páramo habitats are usually found in the national parks, for example El Ángel and Cajas , and the highland sections of Cotacachi-Cayapas and Cayambe-Coca reserves.

It's always worth getting a local guide to go bird-watching with you. They tend to know where to look and have a knack at picking out birds amidst the undergrowth and greenery. Most of the better lodges and private reserves will have in-house guides, often trained ornithologists, or be able to get hold of one for you.

Binoculars are an invaluable piece of equipment for spotting birds up in the forest canopy, and you may find a field guide handy , though many private reserves supply their own bird lists.

Mountain biking
Mountain biking is more widespread in the sierra than in the lowlands, and a handful of rental companies in the main tourist centres can sort you out with wheels. Outside of Quito, you're less likely to get a bike of decent quality; always check the bike's in good working order before you leave. Bike trips for more than a day require more forward planning , but day-trips are relatively simple to arrange and can take in longer downhill sections, returning to the starting point by bus (they can usually sling your bike on the roof). One of the most popular routes is from Baños down to Shell or Puyo, but heading out of Ibarra on the San Lorenzo road will also give you plenty of chance to freewheel and enjoy the scenery. Agencies in Quito can organize longer bike excursions .

Horse riding
Ecuador's sierra region offers numerous opportunities for horse riding , particularly at the many haciendas that have been converted into country inns, where riding has been a way of life for centuries. Riding up to the region's sweeping páramos framed by snow-capped volcanoes is undoubtedly a memorable experience, especially if you get an early start to catch the clear morning light and avoid the characteristic afternoon showers in the sierra. Ecuadorian horses are a very tough breed, capable of climbing steep slopes and trotting and cantering at high altitudes. Note, however, that they are all small and thin-looking, and not half as beautiful as the horses found in North America and Europe.

Most haciendas and reputable tour companies provide healthy, well looked-after horses, but it's not unusual for cheaper outfits to take tourists out on neglected, overworked animals. If you sign up to a riding tour and your horse looks lame or ill, refuse to ride it and ask for another one. Also, be sure to check that the saddle is securely fitted, with the girth pulled tight, and take time to adjust your stirrups to the right length - they should be level with your ankles if you let your legs hang freely. Be warned that Ecuadorian riding outfits hardly ever provide protective hats.

Two highly recommended dedicated riding operators are: the Green Horse Ranch, north of Quito (tel 02/523856, fax 504773, ranch@accessinter.net ), which offers one- to ten-day rides throughout the Sierra; and Ride Ecuador ( rideecuador@accessinter.net , 09/738221), run by a British woman who organizes riding holidays throughout Ecuador. Other outfits and guides are detailed throughout the text, including: Hacienda Cusín ; Hacienda Guachalá ; Hacienda Zuleta ; Hostal Casa Nieves ; and Hostería La Cienega .

Diving and snorkelling
Ecuador's top scuba-diving spots are in the Galápagos , where there are good chances to see large sea fish as well as a number of spectacular endemic reef fish. Most people arrange diving tours before arrival, but there are several operators on the islands who can arrange trips for you there and then; note that the Galápagos is not the easiest place for novices to learn to dive - mainly due to strong currents and cold temperatures - but it is possible. Snorkelling is likely to be an important part of a Galápagos cruise: bring your own gear if you have it; even though most boats can provide it, there may not be enough to go around and what there is may not fit. A wet suit is recommended between July and December. On the mainland, there's not a lot of scuba or snorkelling, apart from tours arranged in Puerto López for dives around the Isla de la Plata.

Surfing
The coasts of Manabí and Guayas provinces are the most popular places for surfing with tourists and Ecuadorians alike, and laid-back Montañita , in Guayas province, has the reputation of being the country's surf centre, though quieter Canoa , to the north, also has a loyal, less hippieish following. There are some keen surfers on the Galápagos Islands too, particularly at San Cristóbal, where you'll find several places to hire a board and even get a lesson . You won't need to take a wet suit if you're surfing on the mainland, but the water in the Galápagos can get cold in the dry season. The surf season is at its height from December to February, when the waves are usually at their fiercest.

Fishing
Fishing ( pesca deportiva ) for trout ( trucha ) in the lakes of the sierra is quite a widespread local hobby. A couple of the national reserves are well-known fishing spots, namely El Ángel in the north and El Cajas in the south . Few tours to the Oriente forgo the chance of fishing for reputedly the world's most ferocious fish, the piranha ( piraña ), with nothing more sophisticated than a line, hook and bait. Take care when dehooking Oriente fish: some have poisonous spines discreetly tucked into their fins. Deep-sea fishing , a sport for the coast's wealthier people, is consequently less widespread, with Salinas and Manta as the main centres for hooking marlin, tuna, dorado and others.