High in the Andes, Ecuador's capital, Quito , unfurls in an implausibly long north-south ribbon, over 30km long and just 5km wide. To the west, the city is dramatically hemmed in by the steep, green walls of Volcán Pichincha , the benign-looking volcano which has been threatening to erupt for over two years, sending periodic clouds of ash billowing into the sky and over the streets. East, Quito abruptly drops away to a wide valley known as the Valle de los Chillos, marking the beginning of the descent towards the Amazon basin. It's a superb setting, but outside the summer months of July and August it can be bone-chillingly cold up here and Quito's much-vaunted "spring-like climate" all too often gives way to grey, washed-out skies that somewhat undermine the beauty of the surroundings. If this is your entry point into the country, you'll probably find that Quito's altitude of 2800m leaves you feeling breathless and whoozy when you first arrive - most visitors adjust in a couple of days, which is considerably helped by resting, drinking plenty of water and avoiding alcohol.

 

Central Quito falls into two distinct parts. The compact historical quarter known as the old town is the city's undisputed highlight, a jumble of narrow streets and wide, cobbled plazas lined with churches, monasteries and mansions, and colourful balconied houses. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978, old Quito contains some of the most beautiful colonial architecture on the continent, and the chaotic crowds of indígenas and mestizos that throng its streets give the place a tremendous sense of energy. However, as home to the poorer sectors of Quito's 1.2 million population, it is perceived as a dangerous place after dark and few tourists actually stay here, choosing instead the adjacent bland, modern new town as their base. There's nothing very special about the new town, but the concentration of banks, hotels, restaurants, tour operators and cybercafés is undeniably convenient, and even here the main shopping streets are brightened up by numerous Otavaleño street traders, whose wares are spread out over the pavements.

As a major crossroads and transport hub, Quito is the sort of place people keep coming back to, usually in-between forays to the jungle, to the Galápagos and to the northern and southern sierra. It's also a popular base for learning Spanish, boasting dozens of language schools all over town, and many travellers spend several weeks here or longer mastering their castellano . It's an easy city to spend time in, with its great choice of restaurants and the lively presence of fellow backpackers, and if the inevitable pollution and screeching horns begin to get a bit wearing, you can easily nip out for a break to several nearby attractions. The most popular day-trip is to the Mitad del Mundo (Middle of the World) on the equator line, marked by a massive monument and several museums. This is often combined with a visit to the giant volcanic crater of Pululahua . Less obvious targets include the new, fun zoo at Guayabamba and the sanctuary of El Quinche to the north, as well as the Pasochoa forest reserve to the south, which offers great birding opportunities just half an hour from the city.