When the
Spanish
founded
Archidona
in 1560,
they
shared
out the
surrounding
land,
displacing
the
indigenous
Quichua
population.
Forced
down
towards
the
jungle,
the
Quichua
settled
on the
riverbanks
at the
confluence
of the
ríos
Tena and
Pano,
though
it
wasn't
long
before
the
Jesuit
missionaries
tracked
them
down,
built a
church
and gave
the
settlement
a name:
San Juan
de los
Dos Ríos
de Tena.
The name
has
since
shrunk,
but the
city has
continued
to grow
and
TENA
has been
the
Oriente's
most
important
town for
the best
part of
the last
hundred
years.
It was
the
capital
of
Napo-Pastaza
province
from
1920 and
subsequently
of Napo
province,
which
was
created
in 1959.
The
birth of
the oil
industry
in the
Oriente
has seen
the
gradual
erosion
of the
city's
power,
and it
has lost
a huge
portion
of
provincial
territory
to the
new oil
capitals,
Lago
Agrio
and
Coca.
But from
a
tourist's
point of
view,
Tena is
by far
the most
agreeable
of the
three
big
towns in
the
northern
Oriente.
The town
has made
the most
of its
popularity
with
visitors
and
ecotourism
now
makes a
significant
part of
the
local
economy.
This is
one of
the best
centres
in the
Oriente
to
arrange
an
intercultural
exchange
with a
Quichua
group,
mostly
communities
that are
easily
accessed
by road
or river.
Don't
expect
to see
much
wildlife
on these
trips,
however,
especially
larger
mammals
-
although
small
pockets
of
primary
forest
remain,
most
land has
been
colonized
or
overhunted.
A
huge
number
of
tributaries
converge
around
Tena at
the head
of the
Napo
basin.
River
rapids,
waterfalls,
mountain
streams,
sand and
pebble
beaches
allow
for a
host of
water-based
activities
. A tour
from
Tena is
bound to
involve
at least
one of
swimming,
climbing
up
brooks,
bathing
in
waterfalls,
tubing,
kayaking
or
rafting.
Word is
beginning
to
spread
across
the
international
white-water
rafting
and
kayaking
grapevines
about
the
scores
of runs,
from
Class I
to Class
V, all
within
easy
striking
distance
of town.
It's a
hot tip
to be a
major
white-water
destination
in a few
years,
and a
sizeable
kayaking
contingent
already
comes to
Tena
during
the
northern
hemisphere's
off-season
in
December
and
January.
The town
celebrates
two main
fiestas
, one on
February
12 for
provincialization
and
another
on
November
15 for
its
foundation,
both of
which
involve
drinking,
dancing,
the odd
parade
and
partying.
The
Town
Within
sight of
the
Andean
foothills
and
cooled
off by
its two
rivers,
Tena
enjoys a
slightly
fresher
climate
than its
oil town
rivals,
Coca and
Lago
Agrio,
and its
longer,
calmer
history
gives it
a more
established
and
civilized
atmosphere.
The
northern
half of
the town
is the
oldest
part,
with
narrow
streets,
a modest
cathedral
fronting
the
central
park,
and the
post and
phone
offices.
It's the
quieter
half
too, as
most of
the
traffic
is
routed
around
it and
over a
single-lane
bridge
to the
main
thoroughfare,
Avenida
15 de
Noviembre
which
divides
the more
sprawling
southern
half of
the town.
The bus
terminal
stands
at the
less
attractive
southern
fringes
of the
town, so
don't be
put off
by first
impressions.
Locals,
a
mixture
of
mestizos
and
Quichuas,
can
often be
found
relaxing
on the
city's
river
beaches
- strips
of sand
or
pebbles
at the
water's
edge -
or
ambling
around
the
Parque
Amazónico
La Isla
(daily
9.30am-4.30pm;
$0.5),
reached
by a
wooden
footbridge
over the
Río Pano
about
200m
south of
the main
pedestrian
bridge.
It's not
actually
an
island
but the
wooded
tip of a
patch of
land at
the
confluence
of the
rivers.
A
viewpoint
overlooks
the
treetops
and town,
and
paths
meander
past
caged
animals
recovering
from
injury
and
abuse,
to
swimming
spots
along
the
river.
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